Women and Chainsaws!

snowy woods It is winter, and the winds are howling outside, but our big living room is toasty warm despite big windows and french doors. The small woodstove kicks out good heat, and the kettle hisses comfortably on top of it, alongside of a pot of fragrant bean soup that is gently simmering. Outside the door is a stack of wood I cut, split where necessary, and stacked, from dead trees in the hedgerows on this farm.

I think keeping the house warm is a character forming skill for children. Fire-making is a simple competence that is central to human survival, male or female.  As the oldest of four girls I learned many skills from my father that he might not have taught me if there had been sons. As the daughter of a German woman I learned early to like work. So as a little girl I gathered kindling, and as I grew bigger, I helped carry and stack the firewood my father cut, along with my little sisters. Especially in the house we lived in in Virginia when he was teaching at Sweet Briar College, this was not just for the benefit of our characters. During the bogus oil embargo in the Seventies, a professor’s salary couldn’t heat a big, drafty house with oil. That house was freezing, and those mountain winters were snowy. It was cold, our feet and hands were numb, and the hills were steep and slippery, but we did what had to be done as a family to keep the fires going. I have to say I don’t think I was sufficiently understanding or fair when my son was 11 and we were hauling wood on the mild, flat Eastern Shore of Maryland. I was divorced and it’s hard for a mother to raise a son alone. Somehow he learned to be strong and protective, and he learned to split wood along the way.

chainsaw woman and chevy s10It took some big changes in my life to turn me into a chainsaw woman. My father kept us well away from his Stihl. It was a woodsman thing; no woman could possibly run it without cutting off an appendage. But when I moved back to the farm in ’99, I had no man to cut wood, and there was a cute little Poulan chainsaw at the Lowes for less $99. I had a breakthrough. What a man has that I don’t have is utterly useless when it comes to cutting wood. I had watched this all my life. English professors do this. I could do this. You can do this. Just be careful in everything that you do. Maintain the saw, keep the chain tight so it doesn’t fling itself off the bar and cut you, watch how the wood you are cutting is going to be affected by gravity as you cut so you don’t pinch the bar or drop a tree on somebody. Know what you are doing before you do it, and never hurry.

2 chainsawsBuying your first Chainsaw:

OK, let’s get started.  You need a saw. Cheap saws are a good start. Not electric- that’s too cheap. Imagine running around the woods followed by extension cords. Gas. You can get a new Poulanat the hardware store for less than a hundred dollars. Go and heft them. Not everybody has the upper body strength and endurance to cut with a 22 inch Stihl, and if you make a mistake you’ll hurt yourself badly. Start with a 14 inch Poulan. I have two 14 inchers and one 16 inch, because they can generally last a year with someone who doesn’t know how to take small engines apart and fix them. And actually, one of them still runs, if put to it. You probably don’t have too many trees that are too big for 14 inches anyway. You might get a used saw cheaper, but if it is your first saw, make sure it is in really good condition and starts on the first pull. Get the instruction manual off the internet and read it through if you don’t get one that comes in a box. Check out all the youtubes. OK, you think you are too good for a Poulan? If money is not that tight, a Husqvarnais the next step up. Stihl is when you are ready to cut with the big dogs. They are pricey but last forever if well-maintained. My husband got me a very old used #41 Farm Boss, 22 inches, for $300 last year, and I take it in once a year for a tune up, which costs me $80 (for 2 saws.) I only use ethanol free gas in it, mixed with a good quality 2 cycle oil, I clean and sharpen it obsessively, and only certain people are allowed to touch it. It is all metal and says “made in West Germany” on it. It is very heavy and if the chain is sharp it goes through a downed  locust tree like a hot knife through butter. It would do the same to my foot, if I slipped, so I keep well away from the blade. My back hurts a lot when we have a big blow and I have to cut a lot. Try to alternate between the big and little saw; work until one tank is empty, then switch to the other saw and do a different task. So think about this. Start with a small, light saw.

protective gear

My niece showing us how it’s done

While you are at it, get protective gear; safety glasses and ear protectors. And steel toe boots. A friend of mine got a huge chunk of wood right in the eyeball while bush hogging and had to go to a specialist at John Hopkins to save his eyeball. When I have forgotten to wear safety glasses the flying sawdust reminded me in a hurry. For your ears there are those little foam rubber plugs, considerately neon colored so when they fall out of your ears you can find them in the leaves. My father used spitwads. They aren’t much good. You can hear just fine with them in. Honestly, you can get excellent quality cheap ear protectors  that are made for shooting. I paid about $10 for some Winchester ear protectors at- I admit it- I went- sorry- Wallyworld. The Husqvarna ones ($17) are tougher though. People are always borrowing mine. If you don’t wear them, your ears will feel funny and you won’t hear very well. Seriously. Damage can become permanent, plus ear protectors are nice and warm.  As to boots, I live in barn boots- Wellingtons or whatever. It’s just me. They get sweaty, but they are light and I can slip them off and on while shaking sawdust out of them, and wade through mud and muck without a worry. You might prefer some lace up work boots with steel toes.

screnchScrench/Chainsaw tool

This is a t-shaped tool that has a screwdriver on one end and two hex drivers on the other. You can’t live without it. It loosens and tightens your chain, the nuts that hold your bar on, and even opens the gas and bar chain oil tanks. You will always be losing it, so spray paint it neon pink or something. Saves cussing.


The new ethanol mix gas tears up small engines, especially if you leave it in the saw for more than a few days. You really should leave the saw either totally empty and dry or full while you aren’t running it. If you aren’t using it for a month or so, fill it with gas mixed with Stabil. Leaving it totally empty for too long can cause the seals to dry and crack. I go to a gas station that has ethanol free gas and fill up my 2 gallon can 95% full. If I’m using a 1 gallon, same thing. Chainsaws used mixed gas. You buy the good quality 2 cycle oil,measure it very precisely, and mix it into the gas by shaking. It’s easy though. The oil I mix it with is either pre-measured or squeezes into a measuring container that is designed for 1 gallon. I want to make sure I err just a tad on the side of less than a gallon, and I can tell how much I bought by looking at the pump. A few pennies of gas is not worth having to overhaul your saw.

add bar chain oil to oil chamber

pouring bar chain oil into the oil chamber. Don’t get them mixed up….

When you fill your gas tank with the mixed gas, fill the oil reservoir on the other side of the saw as well. They run out at about the same rate, and if you don’t have oil constantly lubricating the bar the chain will overheat and lose the temper of the metal, among other awful things which have never happened to me because I am religious about bar chain oil. Then it won’t hold an edge. Clean off the sawdust so you don’t get dirt in either reservoir. When you are cutting if you are afraid the chain isn’t lubricating hold the chain above some bark and rev the saw. You should see a fine mist of oil darkening the surface. If not, cut off the saw and check the oil.

Tightening the Chain

Your chain should be seated in the groove on the bar with the cutting edges forward. There should be a picture of a chain link with the correct orientation on the blade or the saw somewhere. how to put the chain on  a chainsaw correctlyYou may laugh, but I have put the chain on backwards more than once. It doesn’t cut- just makes a sad little groove on the log. Like I said, be careful and watch what you are doing and not only will you avoid removing your legs but you will also avoid the humiliation of revealing yourself as a dork. Of course with the chain on backwards you’d probably just go through the pants and some meat. Researching this post I actually saw that they sell chainsaw safety pants. What’ll these Yankees think up next? (Actually those clever safety conscious Germans, but it’s just something my grandfather used to say.)

check tightness of chain1Correct  Tightness

You should be able to slide the chain back and forth on the bar easily with a gloved hand, but it should pull away and snap back when you pull it up off the bar. If you are cutting and it is making a rattling or even jingling sound, cut it off and check that the chain is not hanging loosely on the bar. It can flip off and hurt you. If you are lucky, it can flip off and make all kinds of little bumps and dents on the chain that will prevent it from sliding smoothly in the groove. Then you have to file or grind the links smooth again, which takes a long time, and it will never cut as well again. So be aware of how much the chain can loosen ass it heats up, as it wears, and if you didn’t tighten the nuts really well. Check your saw frequently. If you have been cutting for 15 minutes, you probably can cut off the saw and spend a few minutes pulling brush into a pile, putting logs in a cart or the back of a truck or something, while your saw cools enough for you to check it. This is also good for your body. If you do the same thing for too long without varying, you will get sore and not be able to do as much. Do stretch. If you are loosening and tightening the bolts, check to see if there is a lot of debris under the panel and clean that out. Sometimes I get the bit in my teeth and overheat the little saw.

opening side panel of chainsaw with scrench

opening side panel of chainsaw with scrench. Dont lose bolts!

To tighten the chain, using the hex head on your scrench, loosen the two nuts holding on the side panel until it is loose enough to wiggle a tiny bit. Locate the tightener screw next to the bar that tightens the chain. Now, using the screwdriver tip of the scrench (see how useful it is?) turn the screw clockwise until the chain is tight enough to snap when you pull it off the bar, but loose enough to slide back and forth on the bar. If you have to take the chain off to clean the saw,  take the side panel right off, carefully putting the 2 nuts in the upside down panel and in a safe place. It is amazing how losing those can waste your time. Tip the bar to give yourself enough slack to remove the chain. Don’t sling the chain around as it will turn into a Chinese puzzle. Just lay it carefully on a relatively clean surface in a circle.

bar off closeupClean dirt, sawdust, and oil off the saw. Some saws can get so dirty the bar chain oil won’t flow, which is bad for the blade. I clean mine before or after each use, and if I am doing something else to it I clean it to make it easier to work.

putting it back together3Putting the chain back on is a little trickier but just do it and you’ll get the hang. First, locate the chain tightening screw on the detached panel and turn it counter clockwise, noticing how the little nub that fits into the hole on the bar moves back. You’ll need to do that so the hole on the bar fits over it. Clean the bar, remembering the groove, and lay it back on the bolts. It doesn’t matter which way.  Turn the chain tightening screw until it sits over the hole when you put the panel on the bolts. You can fuss with this later but I just think it’s easier to do it when you are putting the bar in place. Looking carefully at the forward direction of the teeth on top, put the chain over the tip of the bar and around the sprocket, and pull it into place along the groove so that the whole thing aligns. Put the side panel in place and semi-tighten the screws.  Make sure the chain tightener is in the hole in the bar and tighten the chain. You might have to slide the chain back and forth a little as sometimes the chain is on the top or bottom of the sprocket and it has to ride over so it slides straight in the groove on the bar. When it is tight enough to snap and slides smoothly, tighten the bolts as tight as you can with the scrench. If you don’t the saw’s vibration will loosen them and the chain will become slack, which is inefficient and dangerous.

open chainsaw3Bar Maintenance

Clean the groove out whenever you have the chain off. Put a rag over the screwdriver end of your chainsaw tool and run it down the groove. There is a grease gun you can buy to put lubricant into the tiny holes in the bar. I got some and lost it. I never heard of anybody doing that anyway. If the groove gets too worn the chain will wobble and not cut as well. Sand in soil will accelerate this- another reason to keep your chain out of the dirt. You can buy a replacement chainsaw bar but they cost $25- $50.

Starting the Saw

pulling the start ropeIf you have mixed gas and oil in the chambers, your protective gear is on and you are ready to go, here’s how to start it. choke outPut the choke on. Because I don’t have the upper body strength to hold it with one hand and pull it with the other, I put my boot in the handle, hold it down with my left hand, and pull with my right. Generally one good fast pull will start a happy saw. Then give it some gas and the choke will come off automatically. But saws aren’t always happy. According to which saw you have- those directions are good to read- pull 5 slow pulls, half-choke it, and one good pull. If it almost starts, take the choke off. The next pull should do it.


If you aren’t giving it a really fast pull and you end up flooding the carburetor, you will smell a lot of gas. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so and try again. Some saws have a little plastic bladder pump that you push to prime the motor. Those work well but eventually the plastic cracks. You can fix them but by then you might be ready for a new saw anyway. If it just won’t start it could be that you used old gas. (Gas that sits for even a week in a half-full gas can isn’t fit to use, especially in warm weather, unless it has stabilizer in it. It’s the new ethanol mix that makes it so bad. You really should buy gas in small quantities and use it, or try to get ethanol free.) I throw old gas in my ancient Chevy pickup. It doesn’t care. Chainsaws need fresh gas. If you have been trying to start it using bad gas you may be in trouble- the cylinder may be scored; all kinds of horrible stuff. I have gotten away with just emptying it out, letting it sit a little, refilling it with fresh mixed gas, and starting it. It smoked for a moment but then all was well. I have never had the problem be the spark plug. I do sometimes open the Husqvarna and cleaned the airfilter, but it isn’t that dirty. Honestly, the annual trip to A & L Small Engine Repair in Church Hill is all I need (If you are local to me and want his number I’ll give it to you. Excellent, efficient, and honest. Shoot me a comment.) After you get used to your saw you won’t have any problems. I do like to keep my saws in the greenhouse in winter so they won’t be too cold, but it isn’t really an issue in this climate.

One last caveat for fellow dorks. Are you sure you flipped the ON switch? I won’t say a word….

Watch your arm. Sometimes when you pull the pull start string it pulls roughly and you get your arm jerked. It hurts for a day or two. I don’t really know what the reason for that is, but if you pull it slowly out a few times it will pull smoothly again.

sharpening a chainsaw with a dremel attachment

the lines on the metal attachment on my dremel tool show me how to angle my grindstone.

Sharpening the Chain

When the chain is dull, you will know it. You won’t be cutting as fast, and eventually you will see scorch marks on the wood. You don’t want to wait that long, as you may ruin the temper of your chain and then it won’t keep an edge. When you look at the chain, you will see tiny chips and wear marks on the forward edge of the teeth, like a layer is wearing off. The trick to good chain saw wear is even sharpening, and sharpening at the correct angle (30 degrees). You can get a set of little round chainsaw files that go to your saw. The Poulans, Husqvarnas, and Stihls each take a different diameter file. Make sure you find out the diameter you need. My father just set the file at the correct angle and did 10 one-way  strokes on each tooth. You can get a device to hold your file the right way as you stroke. My life improved when my DH gave me a cordless dremel chainsaw with bits to sharpen my saws and an attachable guide to show you where 30 degrees is.  Just look and be sure you are right up on the edge, and count aloud to make sure you sharpen each tooth the same amount as the Dremel takes off metal quickly. There is also a little curved rise behind each tooth that you should grind down a tiny bit each ten regular sharpenings. If you don’t, as your teeth get shorter you will take off smaller and smaller shavings of wood. sharpening saw4There is a chainsaw gauge you can buy very cheaply that you rest on the chain while you file which makes it easy. It is hard metal though. But by this time you will be hooked and won’t mind a bit. A sharp chain is a joyful thing. Once your teeth are nothing but little squares or you have burnt or dinged up the chain you may go buy a new one. They range for 7 to 24 dollars depending on how you buy them, and after all, you are cutting wood to economize.

Now it is time to talk about wood. Click on this link to read about which woods make the best firewood for what.

17 thoughts on “Women and Chainsaws!

  1. Good Morning,

    My name is Sapan and I am a public health educator for the North Carolina Department of Health and Human services. I would like to request to use an image on your website. I wanted to know how that would be possible? I will give credit to whomever took the picture.

    Thank you for your help,

    Sapan Kapadia

  2. Good blog, Susan. I would add: 1) Use mid-grade rated octane gasoline, 2) Support the end of the bar when tightening it, 3) Turn your bar over every time you have the chain off (yes, half the time it will be upside down and people will talk), 4) Next to a chainsaw, a “peavey” is a wonderful invention to turn and support logs you’re cutting, 5) My Stihl Pro 026 has a compression release that eliminates that potential arm wrenching when starting, but I don’t use it, and 6) Your suggestion of regular and frequent breaks is also good for reducing risk of nerve damage from cumalative vibration, and 7) Did you mention it’s good to have someone around when you’re sawing? It is.

    • I would love you to guest blog on how not to flood. This is an issue I am having with my old Stihl. Or maybe it’s something else. I have tried taking out the plug and drying it, but it seems to sort of accumulate until it just starts cutting out more and more easily. I would love not to be dependent on someone else for minimal engine issues.

      • Is your saw flooding when you try to start it, or over time when you are running it? I can try to give you some tips, but need to narrow down the problem a bit first.

        For starting a cold saw, you generally engage the choke and pull a couple of times until you hear a “pop” from the engine Now shut the choke off, and pull again, the saw should start within another pull or two. On some saws, the pop can be rather subtle, on others it obvious. Some are so subtle, that I’ve seen owners who just pull two times on choke (or however many pulls they’ve found to work for them) then shut off the choke and pull again.

        If your saw has a compression release, that makes the starter cord easier to pull. However, if you are having problems getting the engine to catch, try not using the compression release – it will be a bit harder to pull, but having full compression can make it “fire up” more easily.

        If you are still having problems, you may have a problem with the mixture settings (there is usually both a low speed and a high speed mixture setting, unless you have one of the newer saws that sets the mixture automatically via electronic control). This is generally not something you want to mess with yourself, unless you are comfortable working with small engines. It is not at all difficult to do, but it does take some technique – and adjusting the mixture too lean could ruin the saw. If it’s something you want to tackle, I can provide a link describing how to do it, but do yourself a favor and have someone who knows that they are doing whatch and double check until you are proficient at it.

        Other possible problems: it could be that your carburetor is fouled up (this often happens if you store it for extended periods with gas in it, and the gas goes bad). On older saws, the fuel line or other lines could be degraded – even new saws have problems with this on ethanol gas, but older saws are more susceptible, since the fuel lines weren’t designed for to handle ethanol. If you have to use ethanol gas, make sure it’s fresh, and run your saw dry if you won’t be using it in the next week or two. (Note: do NOT try to run your saw all the way dry under load – this is very bad for this type of engine.)

        For starting your saw when it’s still warm from use, you shouldn’t need to use the choke at all (if the saw is properly tuned). Just turn the switch to the run position, and pull. If you have difficulties with this, you may want to try pulling the choke on, then turning it right back off again before pulling the starter. This sets the saw for “fast idle” which sometimes makes for easier starting when you aren’t using the choke.

        Lastly, if you saw has a “primer bulb” (a little rubber dome that you can push until it fills with gas), use it before you try to cold start a saw. On every saw I’ve seen, it’s impossible to flood a saw by overusing the primer bulb. It’s not actually pumping gas into the engine, just getting all the fuel lines filled up if they’ve drained after the saw has been sitting a while.

        This post is already getting too long. If you have a problem with flooding or dying while the saw is already running, let me know. (Susan, if this is getting too involved for your site, I’m happy to try to address some of this via email)

        • Hey, John, all good points. I have been thinking the idle, as I definitely don’t put ethanol gas in, and I store it either plum full or completely empty. But it could be fouled. It’s a really old saw- says WEST GERMANY, how cool is that? I pulled out the sparkplug and the gas that was spurting when I pulled it then was coming through with a carbon discoloration. So I let it dry, put in a new plug, all good. Then slowly it got harder and harder to start again, and started cutting out when I set it down for a few seconds. Put in a new airfilter too- the old one had lost its felt so I guess we could have crud inside. It’s warm today but I’m busy setting up a cello so not sure if I will give it another shot.

          • If your sparkplug coming out fouled and covered in black, that’s a sign that the engine is running too rich. This COULD be simply a matter of needing to adjust the mixture, or you could have more serious carburetor problems. (“More serious” is not that big a deal. If the carb can’t be rebuilt, it can usually be replaced for not a whole lot of money. The question is, how much money do you want to put into a 25+ year old saw – “West Germany” ceased to exist in 1990, though the saws may have retained that text for a while.)

            If it’s a simple mixture problem, you are in luck for two reasons: 1) running too rich is far less likely to do permanent damage to your saw than running too lean, and 2) the mixture on older saws can usually be adjusted with just a small screwdriver – newer saws require special screwdrivers, as a result of the EPA trying to keep “Joe/Joan Homeowner” from messing with the mixture settings.

            Here’s a link to a site that walks you through tuning the carburetor – just click on the “saw Tuning” link: http://www.madsens1.com/mnu_sawmaint.htm If you are tuning by ear, the sound files in that link can be very helpful, but you’ll need good speakers to play it through.

            They recommend using a tachometer to set the high speed mixture. On newer saws, with a RPM-limited ignition system, it’s very tough to tune by ear. I’ve found on older saws that don’t have that limiter, tuning by ear can actually work better – AFTER you’ve developed the ear for it. Once you have idle speed and low mixture set, set the high mixture to the point where it’s just barely “blubbering” at full throttle with the chainsaw not cutting anything. This is just a tad rich of peak RPM (and safer for your saw than being lean of peak RPM). If you’ve got it set just right (turned just enough to the rich side that it barely starts “blubbering”) the sound will “clean up” when the saw is under load in the cut. This is exactly where you want to be for the high speed mixture setting. If it keeps blubbering under load, you’ve most likely got it set a bit TOO rich.

            If the preceding paragraph does not make any sense read the saw tuning link, and listen to the sound files. What’s above should then make more sense.

            If you are at all uncomfortable with this, you might want to try setting the mixture, then bring it into a shop or take it to a friend who knows what they are doing to check out what you’ve done.

          • Great article! Shall I put it up as a post?
            Aw man, I love my old WG saw! The plug, brand new, isn’t really fouled, but looking at it while pulling, the spark is a bit faint. I think what is actually happening is that the magneto needs to be replaced. This might be why it starts out the day fine and then peters out. What do you think?

          • The first thing I would do is check the mixture settings, as described in the links I sent earlier, and saws do need to be adjusted from time to time. If you do it yourself, it’s free, (though you may want someone experienced to check your work before running the saw much).

            Some ignition modules do develop a problem with heat as they get old. This can be one possible cause of a weak spark. They’ll start fine when cold, but often die when the saw gets hot. I’ve never had to replace one, but it’s not difficult to do. Does your saw fire back up OK if you let it cool off a bit?

            There are a number of other things which can cause a saw to not run well when hot. It’s tough to trouble shoot remotely, and I’m far from an expert at it. I do NOT think you are at the point of having to abandon your beloved WG saw.

            If you want some better trouble shooting help than I can give, you might try the Chainsaw section of the Forestry Forum (www.forestryforum.com). It’s a great site, and the moderators do a good job of keeping things civil and friendly.

          • Yes, I did have a terrible problem with heat with my old Hussquvarna. Smoking like crazy. I’m going to replace the muffler and the gasket, which looks pretty easy, when I get a new supply of round tuits. The Stihl really doesn’t run well long enough to get that hot. Well, who knows what that hot is. I’m thinking it’s worth replacing the magneto- it’s just a c-clamp. I hear it’s pretty cheap. It doesn’t fire up right away once cool. I think it is well and truly flooded b then. It seems to take a day or so to start well again. Again, I need a bunch of round tuits.

  3. Another good video on tuning a chainsaw:
    You can hear the “blubber” or “burble” fairly clearly here, and he explains it as he goes along.

    He is tuning a saw that has a “rev-limited” ignition (fairly common on newer saws – prevents the saw from turning more than a certain max RPM). With these saws, tuning the high speed mixture too lean will cause it to bump up against the RPM limit. This can sound a lot like the “blubber” you get when tuning a saw to the rich side. He avoids this by just not ever tuning the saw that lean. (If I recall, the sound files on the link I posted earlier are on a non-rev-limited saw. As you turn the high speed mixture too lean, it speeds way up and starts to “scream” before it finally dies.)

    • OK, the gas lecture: What you really want is the alcohol-free gas, which is usually also high octane. It’s more expensive but it’s really better for small engines. Also be really sure that you have put enough oil into your gas when you mix it. If you don’t use mixed gas you can score your piston and cylinder, and that is expensive to replace. It’s possible to smoothe out the cylinger if the scoring isn’t too bad, but the piston and ring definitely would have to be replaced. If you can imagine the cylinder and piston in the 2 stroke engine having to be very tight to create the compression necessary for the engine to run, obviously the scoring that the oil is designed to prevent creates little grooves that the air and gas mixture can escape through. You can buy the kit. Sounds obvious, but double check. I have seen this happen to a new saw, and obviously the only explanation is that some fool put unmixed gas in it.
      Final thought: if you are putting your saw away for any length of time, either store it dry or full- not half way, and use some Stabil or other gas stabilizer. That goes for any gas that is going to sit. You can really gum up an engine using old gas. Old gas tends to smell like varnish when you lift the cap, and that is sort of what it will do to an engine.

    • Most chainsaw manufacturers recommend a minimum of 89 Octane gas (which in most parts of the US means at least “mid grade”). Since gas tends to lose octane rating as it sits, it’s generally better to give yourself a buffer and buy premium fuel (91-93 Octane).

      I echo Susan’s comments to use ethanol-free gas if at all possible. While E10 gas (10% ethanol) is approved for use in most modern saws, they really don’t seem to like it all that much. Older saws really had a problem, as the ethanol would attack the fuel lines, diaphragms, and various rubber seals. The materials used in modern saws can tolerate ethanol a bit better, but they have not resolved all of the issues.

      Use FRESH gas in your chainsaws! If I HAVE to use E10 gas, I do not put it in my chainsaw if it’s more than a month old – even if you added a fuel stabilizer to the gas. I also run the saw dry when I am done, unless I will be using it again in the very near future.

      If my gas gets older than that, I throw it in my lawnmower, which is much more tolerant of marginal fuel. (You do get better shelf-life out of non-ethanol gas.)

  4. I think you have your dremel attachment incorrectly assembled. You may have figured this out by now. If I can be of any help, feel free to e-mail.

    • It’s a weird little thing, and for some reason I’m not able to pull up the picture right now, but it seems to keep me at the precise angle pretty well. There’s also the manual chain guard, that works sort of like a miter box.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

CommentLuv badge